Manufacturers of T-shirts use many terms when describing their products. It is helpful to know the terms so that they are consistent.
Here’s the Green Man T-Shirts guide to understand t-shirt terminology:
20s, 20/1, 20s single:A unit that measures the fineness or thickness of cotton thread. One standard spool of single-ply, cotton thread contains 840 yards. It takes 20 spools of cotton thread to equal one pound. The thread is called 20s or 20/1. When 30 spools are equal in weight, the thread is called 30s cotton thread or 30/1. It takes 40 spools for one pound to make a thread, which is 40/1. Higher numbers indicate a finer thread. This creates a finer and softer fabric. The softer and finer T-shirts from the 40s and 30s will have a more drapey feel than 20s. Although the terms can be used in many different ways, it is only the number of t-shirts that matters. “20s,” “20/1,” “20 singles”The same thing. You can twist threads together to make thicker strands. It would become 20/2 if two cotton threads 20/1 were combined.
Bamboo FabricRayon from bamboo cellulose. Rayon is a synthetic man-made material that is easily biodegradable. Bamboo fabric is extremely soft with a great drape.
Bamboo:It is classified as a grass and can quickly be grown into rayon, making bamboo rayon clothing.
Bleach Wash:This is a process which uses bleach to distress and soften the fabric.
The Boat NeckThis neckline runs along the collarbone and to the shoulder. This is a result of early sailors’ shirts. The wide neck allowed for quick removal in the event that the sailboat was lost.
Boy beaterFashion for women is the answer to the lady beater. The tank top for women can come in any color.
Brushed CottonBrushed cotton is a method of removing excess lint from fabric. Broiled cotton is usually soft and smooth.
Burn-Out:The use of strong acids or sulfuric acid in a process “burn-out”A fabric knitting section, typically a cotton/polyester blend. This creates a very transparent effect that is almost invisible.
Cap SleevesIt is usually used to refer to the shorter sleeves of women’s clothes.
Carbon Dioxide CO2. The chemical compound consisting of two carbon atoms and one oxygen atom. Sometimes called a “greenhouse”Gas because of its connection with global warming. There are a few manufacturers of T-shirts who now measure and record the CO2 emissions that they produce.
Carbon Trust:An independent organization that monitors carbon emissions, founded in Great Britain in 2001. Carbon Trust partners with companies to lower their carbon footprint and certifies businesses and products for having achieved a “low carbon”Or “no carbon” footprint. Some t-shirt manufacturers now make their products. “low carbon footprint” t-shirts.
Carding:This is a fiber cleaning procedure that removes any short fibers as well as dirt and other foreign material. You can either do carding by hand, or you could use large drum rollers on a machine. Combed cotton is more desirable than combed cotton.
Cellulase Wash:An alternative name for enzyme washing. The wash can create a soft, vintage feel to fabric depending on the method used.
Cellulose:This is the cell wall of some plants. It is useful in the production of certain fabrics such as triacetate and acetate. Bamboo fabric can be described as rayon that is made of bamboo cellulose.
Buy Cotton T-ShirtsCarded cotton t-shirts are made using 18/1 yarn and usually knit on 20 gauge machines. T-shirts made with coarse cotton are rough and have low draping. These t-shirts are often used as promotional giveaways.
Climate Neutral:An adjective used to refer to a product, company or process that has no impact on the Earth’s climate. Some t-shirt companies advertise that their products are climate neutral.
CO2: Carbon dioxide. Two oxygen atoms plus one carbon atom make up a chemical compound. Also known as: “greenhouse”Gas because of its connection to global warming.
Colorfastness:It is the ability of clothing to withstand repeated washings without losing its colors.
Combed CottonThis is a method of removing short fibers, and to place longer fibers parallel in order to make a fine, smooth cotton yarn. The best quality cotton is combed. It has a high level of strength and uniformity. The cost of combed cotton is higher and it’s used in finer T-shirts.
Compacting: The process of reducing the distance between cotton fiber pockets. Reduces shrinkage
Contrasting Stitching You can stitch with a color other than that of the garment. This gives a great design detail to t-shirts.
Control UnionInternational organization offering certification services to a range of programs, including organic certification. It certifies USDA Organic and GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard).
Cotton Jersey Knitted fabric that is slightly stretchy and has a flat front. The back of the fabric is more texture but still uniform. The average weight of a yard is 5.5-6 ounces. The basic cotton jersey t-shirt is made from. Cotton jersey made from fine cotton is typically smoother and lighter in weight.
Cotton:The most widely used natural fiber in fabrics around the globe. Cotton fibers are usually ½ to 2 inches long. Longer fibers produce finer cotton fabric. Pima, Egyptian and other varieties with fibers greater than 1.5 inches are worth more than the ordinary variety.
Crew neck:The neckline is round and close fitting. The most common neck for t-shirts.
Crop top:A short-bodied shirt that exposes the midriff.
Double-Needle Stitched: It is most commonly used on bottom hems/sleeve sleeves. This style of stitching provides durability, and an elegant look.
Drape, Drapability: This refers to the fabric’s hang time. Fabrics like bamboo rayon have excellent drape while fabrics like burlap, which is coarser than cotton, are very draggy. High-quality drape T-shirts are more pleasant to wear.
Let’s drop the tail:An item that has a longer back than the front.
Eco-Friendly:This is a loosely defined term that applies to the product. “greenness.”It is almost impossible to accurately assess a product. The term preferred by green washers.
Egyptian CottonEgyptian cotton is valued for its length and quality. For its softness, fineness, and quality of workmanship made from Egyptian cotton, apparel is highly sought after.
Environmental Justice Foundation:This registered charity was established in 2000 for the purpose of helping people affected most by environmental abuses, such as soil destruction, pesticide poisoning, and water depletion. They are particularly active in preventing cotton farm abuses.
Enzyme Washed:Special enzymes are used to give fabric a silky soft look and feel. The special appearance of dyed fabrics can be achieved by using age-dyed dyes. Enzyme washing has a lower impact on fabric than stone washing.
European cut:This is a style of tee-shirt that’s narrower than the usual. A men’s full-cut tee shirt, in size large, measures 22 inches across the chest. It is measured one inch lower than the sleeves. The European large cut for men will be half to one inch shorter, and sometimes even more.
Fabric dye:Before being sewn together, fabric is dyed.
Fair Labor Association:An international non-profit dedicated to eliminating sweatshop conditions worldwide. The Code of Labor Practices is a code of labor practices that will be used in apparel businesses where the working conditions are so bad.
Fair Wear Foundation: A global group that aims to improve the lives of garment workers around the globe. It works with garment companies and those that are responsible for the supply chain.
High-Quality Cotton JerseyKnitted fabric that is slightly stretchy and has a flat front. The back of the knit fabric is more texture but still uniform. Regular cotton jersey tends to be more smooth and lighter than fine cotton jersey. The fine cotton jersey T-shirts are more drapey and comfortable than regular tees. This t-shirt is typically made using 30s or more cotton thread. It weighs approximately 4.3 ounces per square mile.
Fitted Cut:Although there are many definitions, a fitting cut is a cut that flatters your body. The shirt’s middle section is often used in women’s T-shirts. It will usually be shorter than either the top or the bottom. The shirts are generally shorter than the basic, full-cut t-shirts.
The Full Cut A generous, roomy cut. Full-cut t-shirts generally have tubular designs, though there are exceptions. Full Cut is different from European Cuts and Slim Cuts.
Garment Dyeing: After clothing has been cut, dyed and sewn together to make a final article.
Garment Wash:The process in which clothing is washed.
GMO free: GMO is for Genetically Modified Organisms. In the 1990s, GMO was introduced to protect consumers from genetically modified foods. GMO-free labels are now used by many companies on all food and natural fabrics.
GOTS:Global Organic Textile Standards. The International Working Group is responsible for this project. To provide an assurance for the consumer, they have created standards that guarantee organic textiles from their harvesting through to production and labeling. A certified organic t-shirt meeting the standards may be awarded GOTS certification.
Green:A generic term that marketing experts use to describe products. A favorite term is “green-washers,”People who jump on to the environmental wagon without making any commitment.
Green-Washing: Start the term “white-washing,”But in an environmentally responsible context. Although green-washing companies may be claiming to support environmental issues in order to increase business, they aren’t taking any concrete steps to become more environmentally-conscious.
Hand: A fabric’s touch. Fabrics that feel soft and smooth are considered good.
Hemp Fabric Hemp (or Cannabis sativa) has been used as fabric for many years. It was mainly used in the manufacture of industrial fabrics. Modern processing methods make it more suitable for fine clothing. Now, it can be used in many articles of clothing including t-shirts. Hemp is prized for its durability and strength.
Henley Tshirt:A Henley, which is similar to a collarless Polo shirt, is a pullover T-shirt with 2 to 3 buttons. Sometimes, up to 5 buttons may be used but this is rare. You can have a Henley with either a short- or long-sleeved length.
Ice wash:This is a method for stone washing in which the stones are first submerged in potassium permanganate. This gives fabric a frosty appearance.
The Interlock KnitThis knit is extremely soft and drapes well. The interlock knit stitches have a tighter and more flexible knit than Jersey knit but are less stretchy as rib knit. Useful for fine clothing.
Jersey KnitIt is commonly found in tee shirts, and it is one of the strongest knits. This knit has fine vertical and light weight. Jersey knitting was named for the British Island that lies in the English Channel. Jersey Knit with Fine Cotton Threads refers to Jersey Knits made using fine cotton threads, such as the 30s and 40s.
Knit:This describes how interlocking yarn loops that form fabric are made. There are many kinds of knits. Jersey Knit can be found most often in tee shirts. It is also the most durable knit. Jersey Knit is lightweight and features fine vertical ribs. However, interlock knits can be used in finer fabrics while rib knits tend to have more ribs. T-shirt collars tend to be rib knit.
Muscle shirt:Sleeveless t-shirt. But not quite a tank. The basic t-shirt without sleeves. This tank top has a wider shoulder strap than an average one.
Tie your neck with a tapeThe seam is covered with a thin piece of fabric that runs across the neck and shoulders. This covers the seam better than an open stitch. It is often called “The Covered Stitch”. “shoulder to shoulder taped.”
OekoTek 100 Certification from the International Oeko-Tex® Association, which assures consumers that the apparel they buy is chemical free and poses no risk to their health. The Oeko-Tex Standard requires that clothing be free from formaldehyde and arsenic.
Organic ApparelThis term is used in the clothing industry loosely. This can be anything from 100% organic to as low as 6% organic. Often used in conjunction with words like Eco-Friendly or Green. It is up to the consumer to verify that the label and materials are organic.
Organic CottonCotton that is grown naturally without pesticides. Organic cotton that has been certified by the USDA has undergone inspection to ensure its authenticity.
Organic Soil AssociationThe Organic Soil Association was founded in 1946 by farmers, nutritionists, and scientists who were concerned with the link between agricultural practices and human and animal health. Organic Soil Association was the pioneer of organic standards and now certifies businesses and farms that comply with them.
Overdyed:The process of dyeing fabrics and garments that have been previously dyed to create an original look.
Performance T T-shirts made for outdoor and competitive athletes are known as “Performance Ts”. They are known for their breathability and moisture wicking properties. Some performance Ts may be polyester/cotton blendeds or 100% polyester. Due to bamboo’s absorbency and wicking capabilities, performance tees have been called performance tees. They dry faster than those made from 100% polyester.
PFD:Prepared for Dyeing. This is a way for t-shirt tailors to make their own looks with dyes.
Pigment dye:One type of dye which creates a distressed, washed-out look.
Pima CottonAmerican cotton, developed to be competitive with Egyptian cotton in the 1920s. This cotton has longer fibers, and it is often used in fine men’s or women’s clothing. Pima derives its name from the Pima Indians. They helped to plant the new cotton when it was first grown in America.
Pique: This method creates fine texture, waffle-like surfaces through knitting. It is used often to make poloshirts.
Polyester:Synthetic polymers are used to make man-made fiber. This fiber is widely used in apparel and can be combined with cotton to make 50/50 blends.
Pre-Shrunk:Pre-shrinking is the pre-cutting and sewing of fabric. Sometimes it is a finished garment that has already been preshrunk. Preshrunk clothing shrinks less after it is washed. Preshrunk cotton T-shirts can shrink somewhat if it is dried in a dryer.
Raglan T-Shirt:This style of tee-shirt has sleeves that reach the collar. The sleeves usually have a different color to the body. Raglan sleeves have a wider armpit and allow for maximum movement. The raglan sleeves of baseball tees are common.
Rayon:Manmade fiber made from plant cellulose. Rayon has a soft texture, excellent drape and absorbs water well. Rayon was originally developed to replace silk.
Rib KnitThis fabric is known for its heavy vertical ribs. Rib knits come in two sizes: 2×1 (or 1×2) and 2×1. The rib’s width is measured in relation to its space. A 1×1 or 2×2 knit rib means that the space between each of the ribs is equal in width. A 2x1rib knit, on the other hand, means that the space between each rib is twice as large as the spaces inbetween. The rib knit fabric is extremely stretchy, making it ideal for tank tops, collars and cuffs.
Ring Spon:A yarn that is made from twisting or thinning cotton fibers. This results in stronger yarn and a softer feel. Ring-spun tee-shirts feel more soft to the touch.
Ringer T: A t-shirt that has colored sleeves with a matching crewneck. White ringers have armband sleeves in various colors and crew necks in other colors.
Sand wash:It refers to the use of sand when washing garments or fabrics to soften it and distress.
Satin WashedA silicone wash is another term that refers to the process of washing fabric with silicone. This gives it a soft and smooth finish and allows for good draping.
Get a scoop neck The neckline is wide and gently curled, with an indentation that can vary in depth. This style is popular in women’s shirts.
Sheer Jersey:This jersey knit weighs in at about 3.9 ounces. It is slightly stretchier than fine jersey.
Wrap your shoulders with shoulder to shoulder tape The seam is covered with a thin piece of fabric that runs across the neck and shoulders. The seam is covered and it looks more professional than an exposed one.
Shrinkage: This is usually used to describe cotton clothing and how much it will shrink. Although most cotton tees are pre-shrunk it is possible to expect 4-5% shrinkage.
Side Seamed Side seamed shirts are shirts that have seams running from under the arm sleeves to below the bottom hem. Made from side seams, t-shirts with this feature are typically more costly.
Silicone WashedInert silicone is used in washing. This gives fabric a soft, smooth finish and allows for good drape.
Singlet:A men’s tank is another name.
Slim Cut:This is a style of tee-shirt that’s narrower than the usual. A men’s full-cut tee shirt, size large, measures 22 inches across the chest. It is measured one inch lower than the sleeves. A slimmer cut may be half-inch to an inch shorter, or even wider.
Stonewashed: Lava rocks, silicon or rubber balls are used in washing. This process makes fabrics soften and can give them a distressed or aged look. Sometimes, bleach may be used.
Tank topThe T-Shirt is characterized with a thin shoulder strap and no sleeves. Named after the original term swimming pool: swimming tanks.
Tape SeamIt is not true “tape,”But a narrow strip of fabric that is sewn on top of the seam across the neck, shoulders, and neck of your t-shirts. The seam is covered and it looks more professional than an exposed one.
Tubular style:This style has no side seams. It’s round in shape and is made of straight material. Tuber t-shirts cost less to make and are the most affordable.
T-Shirt for men: Although there isn’t a standard way to define a “unisex” tee-shirt, it generally consists of lighter-weight, fine-knit cotton jersey. Side-seamed, unisex tees are not as long as regular men’s tees. Although the sleeves don’t have to be as long as cap sleeves they aren’t full length at the elbow. The length of the body is typically medium-long. There are many variations between unisex tee shirts depending on which manufacturer.
Uzbekistan: An ex-Satellite of the U.S.S.R. that was independent in 1991. It is well known for using child labor and other environmentally harmful methods to produce cotton. Many ethical apparel companies have opted to boycott Uzbekistan cotton. However, some companies aren’t concerned and refuse to participate in the boycott. Uzbekistan is cheap.
V-Neck The inverted triangle neckline. Depending on your style, it can be either deep or low. This style is preferred by women but is also popular with men.
Viscose:This is usually a different name for rayon as in viscose.
Weight: The unit of measure is usually expressed in ounces per square yard. One yard of cotton fabric weighing 5.5 ounces will equal 5.5 ounces. Fine jersey cotton fabrics are lighter than coarser fabrics, and have higher weights.
The Wife BeaterA men’s tank-top t-shirt is a derogatory term. It usually refers to a simple white tank top.
Yarn Dye:Fabrics are made from yarn that has been dyed prior to being woven.