COCK-A – DOODLE-DOO!COCK-A – DOODLE-DOO!It’s a great idea!
You’re crazy! What’s that? What’s the matter? Slowly, I wake up from what appears to have been a nightmare or dream. Monday morning, November 15th, 2004, 5:45 am, Boca Sierpe, Costa Rica. It was my dream or maybe it was just a vision, but I felt a sense of calm and peace as I jumped up to find myself in my tiny casita at the boca.
It was the roosters who crocked at dawn, which was quite pleasant. It is about six o’clock in the morning and it is quite light outside. As I listen, the water crashing against the boca (mouth) of the river is accompanied by birds singing their own morning song. In the jungle, howler monkeys make what sound like large espresso machines. The ocean’s deep blues are breathtaking and I marvel at its whiter than usual whitecaps. A cumulus cloud towers over the ocean, the sun shining on the top and revealing pinks and blues along with huge billowing puffs of white. It’s the way of life. While it would be difficult for me to make my own coffee, Costa Rica produces the highest quality coffee anywhere in the world. The water I use is boiled from water that has been filtered through a hose located about half a mile from the source of the fresh mountain streams. The water is filtered through a ceramic filter before it boils. But the locals just drink it as it is. For my coffee I brew freshly on the porch in a simple pair of jeans and a t-shirt.
German (pronounced Herman), my caretaker, pulls the canoe up to the water’s edge and has two gas tanks in it. He turns to me and confirms that I am on the right track. Two huge Scarlet Macaws fly in to grab the sea almonds that we planted to attract them. These giant parrots are bright and shining. However, their song sounds like a loud, shrill crow in the Midwest. They are still our favorite visitors and we try to make their stay as pleasant as possible. This Monday, I feel as nervous about the commute to work as I do for my morning coffee. Once I get out of the shower, I can grab a bowl of oatmeal and bananas from the tree behind and then head to work. Now I am dressed in shorts and a golf shirt. I’m giving my darling a kiss. “don’t be late honey” “no of course not”And I begin to walk down the cement walkway towards the beach of white sand below.
Herman is a warm and friendly man who greets me at the shore with a bright smile. It is always a good feeling to be greeted by Herman. He holds my hand.”WE SHAKE HANDS HERE”Crazy Mark’s favorite saying, and he says “Buenos Dias Don Jim”. As we get into our little fiberglass canoe, we ask one another how we’re doing. His canoe still lies on the shore and he tells me to climb in to keep my feet dry. I do so until I have at least my sandals wet. To keep my backpack and laptop computer safe, I have my waterproof bag. We stuffed the waterproof bag, two gas cans, and our 18-foot fiberglass boat into an eddy that’s just off the shore. Herman thanked me and we said goodbye.
After hooking up the gas, I start the engine and pull up the anchor. Then, I untie my rope from the buoy, and then begin my 40-minute commute up the Sierpe River. The start of my commute is at the Sierpe River mouth. We have a small house perched on top of the hill with views over the river and ocean. My home town is Sierpe in Costa Rica, about fifteen miles from the river. Helping others discover the same paradise that I love and found is my passion. This is an amazing job because I can help Costa Ricans move from being small farmers to more comfortable lives in their golden years. Similar to me, I help other people find peace. It is rewarding to know that everyone can be happy when they find buyers and sellers.
My 40 minute commute is over. Because of the ocean’s currents, it is a difficult ride upriver at high speeds. I start to power up. Crazy Mark, who is perhaps preparing to sail to Drake Bay from the water, can be seen to my right. Although we exchange waves, it is too far to offer condolences. It seems I’ve missed every rock that I could find using my old propeller. Now I can accelerate.
Two men are adrift in front of a small boat that doesn’t have a motor. The one man waving some kind of white cloth is waving. Reynaldo, my neighbour in the boat is with his son. Reynaldo is a great farmer and shares his bananas with me to get rides from the town. His son needs to be taken to work today. The son climbs in my boat and we shake hands.
There are many sand bars in the river. All of them call me first names because we’ve had many interactions. All of them have been nudged once or twice. I steer clear of them and turn right at the bank. You can see three ranges in the beautiful Costa Rican Mountains as you look ahead. The mangroves are home to many birds, who think they can see me. Although some can identify every species, it is not my job to know their names. To avoid getting in contact with the large sandbar just a few hundred yards from the shore, we hugged the river’s south shore.
The long, covered dock runs from the mangroves along the river edge. From there, a staircase leads down to the flats. Jorge, who has been living there for many years, is working on his dock. He also takes the time to smile and give a warm wave. Melvin walks around the next corner and sees us all cruising past. As if saying something, he smiles at us all as we wave. “Hello my friend”
The calm, flat river is still calm and we are the first boat to arrive. We can be seen behind rolling hills and mountains. It is impossible to imagine a more tranquil, peaceful and beautiful scene than the Sierpe River early in the morning. The Rio Sierpe Lodge is not yet active as we sail by it. Since then, Mark (another Mark) has run the lodge from Iowa.
We duck in a narrow channel at the end to get a quick cut that is only available during high tide. Sometimes I act like I am a super boat captain, and sometimes I travel a bit faster than necessary. This narrow channel allows only one boat to pass. This narrow channel winds through mangroves giving it the feel of a tunnel. The stunning scene is quiet and serene, and attracts more tourists than Matt Dillon’s six-shot camera.
The main river is large and beautiful. We are soon going to see the first boat for our morning commute. The boat is approaching and I am able to tell from the shapes of it along with its green canopy that it belongs to Chicho, an old boat captain who has been a resident of Sierpe for many years. When we see each other, we smile and wave. His boat has no passengers so he will most likely be heading to Drake Bay to get passengers. Chicho was my guide when I arrived in Sierpe almost 20 years ago. He took me out fishing on both the ocean and river. A skilled and experienced boat captain who is very cautious, Chicho has been navigating rivers for a long time and knows all the nuances of each.
Soon, the river flattened and became smooth as glass. We come to the next bend and see the thousands of white egrets, who have come from different places to rest in the mangrove branches. The egrets must be hungry so they take off, creating an amazing scene. After a brief time, they fly in front of the boat and then start to move in different directions. Reynaldo’s son signaled that this was where he wanted to get off, so we pulled over at an opening. He offers to pay the fare, and I decline any money. We shake hands and then he vanishes into the jungle.
When I accelerate up, I notice a small dugout canoe that is under a tree. He is fishing for red snapper, a local favorite. The man looks in my direction and I return the gesture with excitement. It is a river law that any boat with a problem should stop and offer assistance. I went fishing a few years back, and my boat’s motor broke halfway down the river. It was something I looked forward to, but the repair of my motor would be time-consuming. This cut down on my chance at fishing. I helped the boat captain to remove the incapable motor and put it in their boat. We then took off down the river. Our boat captain, Chicho by the way, was soon back with a new motor. He installed it quickly and we were off to an amazing day of fishing. Because people were willing to help others, the whole process took less than an hour.
The crocodile sign is visible in the distance. There are two little bumps that move across the river, leaving little trails. A huge splash occurs as though someone has dropped an air-plane’s bowling ball, and my 6 foot tall rock is now submerged. A family of white-faced monkeys are moving along the branches, swinging from one branch to another just beyond my view. They want to be sure I’m not hurting them.
Boat ahead! I look up and see 7 people in a boat heading downriver. A tiny motor of 4 HP barely moves the boat. The water level is only two inches above the gunnel due to the seven passengers. This confirms my decision not to leave a lot of wake. To keep them from being overwhelmed, I slow down and go at a slower speed than they do. All of them wave to me before I can even wave. They are likely forty-five. I’m now only ten minutes away from Sierpe.
WOW! Another boat can be seen ahead of you during rush hour. It is larger and is stopped at the bank of the river. It is Carlos, the nature guide and a small group of tourists with binoculars and cameras pointed in the same direction. Carlos found a three-toed sloth perched high in a tree. They are all attached to it using their binoculars. “gear”. Carlos and me exchange smiles, waves, and smiles. The tourists are focused on their sloths. Knowing the history of the tour, I glance up at the bat tree that he has no doubt left. A bat tree can be seen growing out of the river, where bats rest in rows to protect themselves.
When I reach Sierpe, water hyacinth are scattered along the river. The bright green and purple flowers look like little bouquets floating freely in this amazing river. When I reach Sierpe, I can see the finish line. An airborne waterline carries water from nearby mountains to the finish line. The pipe is four inches long and connected by cables to the Sierpe River. Sometimes it leaks in one place and, when I get really hot I may take refuge at that area to cool off. I’ll hit it with certain friends and tell them that the sewer line is. I have reached the no wake zone, and I slow to a crawl when I reach the corner that exposes the charming little town of Sierpe.
Edwin greets me at the Oleaje Sereno Dock with a beaming smile. “Buenos Dias Don Jim”He asked me how I was. He asked me how I was and I replied the same. We have the tradition handshake almost before he gets on the boat. That is what I love. My backpack and laptop computer are taken out of the boat. I then walk to the Oleaje Sereno. Edwin moves the boat to safety and I will be able to take my long commute home that afternoon. Outside the hotel restaurant is a table with several captains of boats. All of them greet me, smile at me and give me a hand. Alfonso speaks almost perfect English in the restaurant. “good morning Mr. Jim”He shakes mine hand. Sarah works behind the counter and comes to my aid. She says good morning, and gives me the feminine handshake. Sonia, Edwin’s wife and business partner (and my friend) smiles at me and offers a big hug, kiss and asks where I’m from. Sarah already has brought Sarah a cup of tea, while Sonia provides me with all the latest updates and leads to listings.
I get up and go two blocks to the supermarket, where my wife has a little office. From the hotel I pass Rafa (the boat builder) and Jose (the boat taxi operator), Elias, my friend and farmer Jorge and Henry, who are all part of the journey to the grocery. They all shake hands, smile, and then ask how I’m doing. Then, we arrived at the small grocery store. “El Fenix”Cholo, Carmen, and Lisette greet me by shaking my hand and putting their cheeks to mine. They then inquire about how I am doing.
Since I last left my little home at the Boca, it has been one hour and everyone I met along the route has welcomed me with a smile or acknowledged that they knew I was there. It’s a beautiful moment. “this is too good to be true”I. To get internet running, I simply need to switch a few cords. Although it is slow, I’ve come to appreciate that the internet is both slow and beautiful. My email finally comes up, and I’m able to view my first email.
Dear Sir
We have thought for some time about buying a small property in Costa Rica. It would be a great way to escape the cold winters here in Michigan. Our goal is to have a small home and enough land to be able enjoy the wildlife. Although we are seeking peace and quiet, our budget is limited. We would appreciate any information.
Kim Anderson, Don
This is a chance to share my love of paradise with others. Reflecting on my journey up the river and thinking about the return trip home, I realize how much I look forward to my commute.
PARADISE FOUNDYou are here!